Let’s embark on an enchanting evening that combines the allure of Parisian history with the delight of gastronomic exploration. In this post I share my impressions of the “Paris at Sunset: Aperitif, Food & Wine Tour” which offers an intimate glimpse into the heart of the Latin Quarter, one of Paris’s most storied and vibrant neighborhoods.
Known for its bohemian spirit, historic architecture, and academic heritage, the Latin Quarter has been a center of scholarly life in Paris since the Middle Ages and continues to pulse with youthful energy and intellectual fervor today. This tour not only promises delicious food and wine but also a deep dive into the area’s rich cultural history.
Paris at Sunset: A Culinary Journey Through the Historic Latin Quarter
A Hidden Historical Gem
Our afternoon tour commenced at one of Paris’s best-kept secrets—the remnants of a Roman amphitheater from the second century BC. Tucked away in the shadows of more modern structures, this ancient site sets a historical precedent for the evening’s adventures.
The Roman amphitheater in Paris, known as the Arènes de Lutèce, is one of the city’s most intriguing yet lesser-known historical sites. Hidden away in the Latin Quarter, this ancient structure dates back to the 1st century AD, a testament to the deep historical roots of Paris during the Roman era. Originally, the amphitheater could accommodate around 15,000 spectators and was used for a variety of events, including gladiatorial combats, theatrical performances, and sports competitions, reflecting the diverse and vibrant cultural life of Roman Paris, then known as Lutetia.
Today, the Arènes de Lutèce is nestled in a quiet park, a peaceful retreat from the bustling city streets. Much of the original structure has been lost to time, but significant restoration efforts have revived parts of the grandstands, the stage, and the arena itself, giving visitors a glimpse into its former glory. The site features a central performance area, surrounded by remnants of tiered seating, where Parisians once gathered to watch spectacles and socialize.
Now, it serves as a beloved community space where locals play pétanque, children run and play, and visitors sit to ponder the layers of history beneath their feet.
Exclusive Access to a Local Bistro’s Tasting Room
The evening unfolds as we gain exclusive access to a charming tasting room tucked away in one of the Latin Quarter’s cherished bistros. Renowned for its commitment to showcasing small-scale winemakers and celebrating forgotten grape varieties, this intimate venue offers a truly unique wine experience.
To enhance the tasting, the bistro pairs these distinctive wines with a carefully curated selection of artisanal charcuterie, elevating the flavors and enhancing the overall sensory experience.
Adding a touch of classic French cuisine to the pairing, the bistro also serves oeufs mayonnaise and fresh asparagus, two dishes beloved for their simplicity and rich historical significance. Oeufs mayonnaise, a humble yet iconic dish of boiled eggs topped with a generous dollop of creamy, homemade mayonnaise, is a testament to French culinary tradition. It’s a dish that harks back to the basics of French cuisine, focusing on quality ingredients and straightforward preparation that highlights the natural flavors. The dish has even been championed by food enthusiasts who formed an association, “The ASOM,” dedicated to preserving this classic as part of France’s culinary heritage.
We also enjoyed a serving of tender, steamed asparagus, elegantly draped in a velvety white cream sauce. This preparation of asparagus, a beloved herald of spring, captures the essence of the season and brings a luxurious texture to the palate. The dish is completed with golden, crunchy croutons, adding a delightful contrast that complements the smoothness of the sauce and the succulence of the asparagus.
Wines we tried
Magmatic – Vintage 2021 – Mont-Val Wines
Grape variety: White Carignan | Vintage: 2021 | Region: Languedoc-Roussillon |Serve between 8 and 10°C |11.5% alcohol | Sparkling wine
This wine features the white Carignan grape, known for its vibrant and refreshing qualities. The 2021 vintage hails from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, a well-known wine-producing area in southern France that is celebrated for its diverse grape varieties and innovative winemaking techniques. This sparkling white Carignan offers a delightful effervescence and is characterized by its fresh, delicious taste, making it a perfect choice for those who enjoy lively and flavorful wines. Best served chilled between 8 and 10°C, it contains 11.5% alcohol, ideal for those seeking a lighter sparkling option. Enjoy the invigorating experience of this superb wine that is quickly gaining popularity among enthusiasts.
Camille de Labrie Chardonnay – 2022
Grape variety: Chardonnay | Vintage: 2022 | Region: Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux |Serve at 12°C |13.5% alcohol | White wine
This cuvée is named after their daughter who designed the label herself. 100% Chardonnay. A fresh and aromatic wine with notes of quince, honey and spices blending with hints of citrus, mango and ginger. This Chardonnay features a beautiful freshness, good acidity and nicely balanced. Serve at 12°C.
The Château Croix de Labrie is a distinguished estate in the AOC Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, known for its artisanal wine production. Managed by Axelle Courdurié, the vineyard emphasizes organic and biodynamic practices, focusing on achieving perfect grape ripeness. The estate’s vineyards are strategically located in varied terroirs, enhancing the unique characteristics of their wines, which include a dominant Merlot blend alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wines are noted for their finesse, elegance, and the embodiment of their rich terroirs.For more details, visit their website.
Domaine Bobinet Piak! Rouge 2022
Grape variety: 100% Grolleau | Vintage: 2022 | Region: Loire Valley |Serve 15°C |11 % alcohol | Red wine
Domaine Bobinet was established in 2002 in the Loire Valley, France, when Sébastien Bobinet received two hectares of vineyards from his grandparents. The winery evolved significantly when Emeline, a former dancer and trained sommelier, joined as a partner. They expanded their vineyard holdings and experimented with different grape varieties beyond Cabernet Franc and Chenin, emphasizing sustainable and ethical winemaking practices. Their notable wine, Domaine Bobinet Piak! Rouge, is made from organically farmed, 35-year-old Grolleau vines, using carbonic maceration and aged briefly in fiberglass tanks before being bottled naturally without filtration.
This wine greets the senses with a rich aroma of fresh red fruits. On the palate, it is light, refreshing, and pleasingly gourmet, offering a crisp and invigorating drinking experience. It stands out for its sheer drinkability and dynamic energy, making it a delightful choice for those seeking a refreshing red wine.
Cheese and Chat at the Fromagerie
A short stroll from the Bonvivant bistro leads us to a beloved local cheese shop run by two brothers, Stéphane and Franck. This old-school spot serves as the perfect introduction to the intricate world of French cheeses, offering insights into their history, crafting laws, and cultural significance.
Cheeses We Tried on our Tour
Brebis Chèvre Brebis Chèvre is a unique cheese blend from France that combines sheep’s milk (brebis) and goat’s milk (chèvre), offering a distinct, rich flavor profile. This cheese highlights the creamy and tangy characteristics inherent in both types of milk, and is often celebrated for its smooth texture and versatility in culinary uses.
Chavignol Originating from the Loire Valley, Chavignol, more formally known as Crottin de Chavignol, is a goat’s milk cheese that is small and firm. Renowned for its gradual texture change from creamy to nutty and crumbly as it ages, this cheese is often enjoyed both fresh and when fully matured, pairing wonderfully with Sancerre wine.
Tomme aux Fleurs Tomme aux Fleurs, made in various regions of France, is distinguished by its edible rind that is covered in dried flowers, typically including marigold, cornflower, and rose, giving it a striking appearance and a subtly floral flavor profile. This semi-hard cheese is made from cow’s milk and is known for its creamy texture and mild, earthy undertones.
Comté (36 months aged) Aged for 36 months, this Comté cheese hails from the Jura region of France. It is made from cow’s milk and is known for its complex flavor profile, which includes notes of nuts, caramel, and a hint of fruit. The extensive aging process allows for the development of a dense texture and rich, deep flavors that are highly prized in culinary circles.
Culinary Echoes of the French Revolution
Our path then leads us to a neighborhood bistro in the heart of the Sorbonne, where the menu reflects the revolutionary shifts in French culinary traditions. Experience dishes with historic significance, including a revolutionary seafood bite (Accras de morue) and a quintessential bistro staple – escargot.
The tradition of eating snails in France, known as “escargot,” has roots that trace back to ancient times. Roman sources note that the French were known for eating snails, a practice that likely predated Roman influence. In French cuisine, snails are typically prepared with garlic butter, parsley, and sometimes other herbs and spices before being returned to their shells for serving. This culinary practice became especially popular in the 19th century and remains a signature aspect of French gastronomy, celebrated for its unique flavor and texture.
Accras de morue, also known as cod fritters, are a popular Caribbean appetizer often associated with French West Indian cuisine. Made from salt cod that has been soaked and flaked, these fritters are seasoned with herbs, spices, and sometimes hot peppers before being deep-fried until golden and crispy. Their crisp exterior contrasts with the fluffy, flavorful interior, making them a beloved snack often enjoyed with spicy sauces or dips. They reflect the region’s cultural blending of French and Caribbean culinary traditions.
We paired these two appetisers with Gamay wine. Gamay is a red wine grape variety known for its light-bodied and fruit-forward profile. Primarily cultivated in the Beaujolais region of France, it thrives in the granite soils there and produces wines characterized by bright acidity and notes of red berries, cherry, and banana. The most well-known expression of Gamay is Beaujolais Nouveau, a young and fruity wine released just weeks after harvest. This versatile grape also creates more complex wines when grown in the Beaujolais Crus, where longer aging results in more structure and depth.
A Walk Through Time
As our tour winds down, take a leisurely stroll through the Latin Quarter’s bustling streets and end up at the Panthéon. The Panthéon, is a neoclassical mausoleum that houses the remains of notable French figures like Voltaire, Rousseau, and Marie Curie. Originally built as a church, it later became a national monument. It’s famous for its grand architecture, particularly the impressive dome, and its role in showcasing France’s secular and revolutionary ideals, serving as a symbol of national pride and historical significance.
This walk through one of Paris’s oldest neighborhoods offers insights into the monuments and moments that have shaped not just the quarter but modern France itself.
Conclusion:
The “Paris at Sunset: Aperitif, Food & Wine Tour” is more than just a meal; it’s a multi-sensory experience that introduces you to the flavors, history, and ambiance of the Latin Quarter. You can book this tour here and enjoy an evening that will satisfy your palate and feed your soul, all set against the backdrop of Paris’s enchanting twilight.
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